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Section 5: Pecos River Area Hikes
This is the central area of the Pecos Wilderness. It contains the most trailheads and the Pecos River from which the wilderness is named. The trailheads include 11 – 17.
Hike #20 – The Holy Ghost Trail
Trailhead: #11 Holy Ghost
Directions: Take NM highway 63 North from Pecos, NM. Keep going until you reach the Holy Ghost Canyon Road or Santa Fe National Forest Road 122. The turn is just before the steel girder bridge across the Pecos River in Tererro. Take a left here and follow it approximately 2.3 miles through the cabin sites area on a single lane paved road until you reach the trailhead parking lot and kiosk on your left. The parking area is just before the entrance to the campground.
Difficulty: Moderate to Hard
Distance: 8.4 Miles
Time Required: Day Hike to Overnight
Attributes: Scenic Forest, Scenic small stream, Fishing, a few views, interesting botanical area
Seasons: March - October
Usage: Heavy to Moderate
Special Information:
Trail Description: The trail begins just North of the parking area directly across the road from the kiosk. It immediately begins to climb up the hill switchbacking twice to gain some elevation so that it can bypass the campground at a reasonable distance. Once it gains enough elevation, it levels off a bit and contours the hillside through a beautiful little mixed forest. An occasional view can be seen through the trees of the campground below and the aspen studded hillsides across the canyon. You will dip down into two ravines in this section and then finally drop down into an open, flat area right next to the stream. At this point you have hiked about a mile. Turn right on the heavily used trail that comes from the campground. The trail immediately crosses the stream on a footbridge made of poles. Follow it out of the alders and willows of the riparian area into a clump of small aspens right on the south end of a large meadow opening. The trail goes through the opening and into the trees beyond. The trail then passes through the forested area and passes through another opening before crossing a small side-stream just before the wilderness boundary sign. There is lovely little grove of aspen that you hike through right at the boundary. The trail continues due north from here. It stays fairly level. It passes through more openings, and there are a few side trails to the stream probably from fishing usage. Soon you will reach a difficult crossing where you will have to balance on thin poles to get across the stream. If you prefer, there is a somewhat easier rock hop just south of this crossing. However, the pool at the crossing is quite beautiful. The trail continues to follow the stream on the opposite bank for a while. Eventually, it drifts away from the creek and begins to climb moderately for a short distance. Here, the trail goes around a rock outcrop and proceeds down to another stream crossing. There is a campsite are here to the left a bit downstream that can be seen from above on the way down to the crossing. Next, the creek follows the steam up a short way until it reaches an opening with another creek crossing. It looked like there may be a nice open campsite upstream from the crossing. However, I did not explore it when I was there. After the crossing, the trail climbs steeply up a small hill. It flattens out in a forest of old Ponderosa Pines and younger Douglas Fir trees. Soon, the trail drops back to the creek and crosses again. The trail follows the stream for a short distance on the eastern bank. Then, it comes to another crossing. After the crossing is a very steep but short climb until the trail traverses the hillside that is covered in a somewhat open and mixed forest. You will soon come to one more creek crossing before the trail climbs steeply switchbacking up the hillside. Finally, you will know that you are getting close to the top when you enter an opening that is mostly surrounded by aspen trees. The opening will begin to flatten out on top and directly across the opening on the north side just inside the tree line is the junction with the Winsor Trail and the end of the Holy Ghost Trail.
Hike #21 – Winsor Ridge Trail to Stewart Lake
Trailhead: #13 Cowles Ponds Parking Area
Directions: From the Village of Pecos, NM, take NM 63 north along the Pecos River for about 19 miles. Take a left across the bridge over the Pecos River in the location of Cowles. Please note that Cowles is not a town or village, but it is merely a cabin area within the Santa Fe National Forest. The trailhead and Parking is just across the bridge and before the Cowles Campground. Parking is shared with the fishing ponds.
Difficulty: Moderate
Time Required: Day Hike to Overnight
Attributes: Views, wildlife, fishing, scenic
Seasons: June - October
Usage: Heavy
Special Information: Loop hikes can be created from this trail in conjunction with the Cave Creek Trail or the Winsor Trail.
Trail Description: In the heart of Cowles, New Mexico there is parking on both sides of the bridge over the Pecos River for fishermen and hikers alike. The trail starts on the North side of the road from the fishing ponds parking area. Look for the kiosk near the bathrooms. From the kiosk, the trail crosses a grassy field with an occasional blue spruce or pine tree until it meets with the road that goes up to Panchuella Campground. Look for the continuation of the trail slightly uphill from where it first meets the road. From the road, the trail continues gradually climbing until it meets a trail junction with a connector trail that leads to Cave Creek. Go left (strait) as the trail continues gradually up the hill through patches of gambles oak that lie underneath the ponderosa pine overstory. Watch for mule deer though this section of trail as they frequent the area. Next, you will pass through a small grassy glade surrounded by aspen and old growth ponderosa pines. Soon, the trail begins it switchbacks to head higher up the ridge. While climbing the very gradual switchbacks, you will pass the wilderness boundary sign. After the trail levels out, you will pass a small rock outcrop that has a nice seat for a break spot with a decent view, but it may be hot on warmer days as there is no shade. At about the two-mile mark you’ll pass another small grassy glade surrounded by larger oak trees than normal, and the ever-present pines. There is a campfire ring in the center of the glade. This is one of the only places in the wilderness where you can find oak firewood to burn. From the glade the trail continues traversing it’s steady 10-20% grade up the ridge. Eventually, the trail reaches the first dense stand of aspen. On the far side of the stand, the trail crosses a ravine with a wet trickle of water glistening on a rock to your right. About 40 yard downhill from here there is a spring that is the first source of water that you will find along the trail. I would estimate you are about three miles from the trailhead here. From the spring, the trail dips south and then traverses around a spur ridge. Past the spur ridge the trail heads once again in a northwesterly direction and views of the mountain peaks begin to open up including Santa Fe Baldy and Penetente Pk. There are also great views of the Winsor Creek drainage all the way down to the Pecos River. You can even see the cabin rooftops of Cowles at the bottom of the canyon. After a while, you will round another spur ridge where the trail turns more northerly. Soon you will come to another ravine with a grassy spring. The water from the spring flows down the trail a little way due to a plugged culvert pipe. There is a horse trail just before the spring that leads up into a huge open glade with excellent views of Santa Fe Baldy from the south end of the glade. There are even some nice but dry stealth camping spots on top of the ridge around the glade if you wish to do some off trail exploring. It is also a good place to see elk and deer. Anyway, continuing up the trail from the small grassy spring, the trail flattens out a bit until you reach another large grassy glade to your right. You can see this one a bit better from the trail. It is also a great spot to look for deer and elk. Next, you will cross another fast-flowing spring that partially flows through a culvert. This is probably the best place to get fresh clear water along the entire Winsor Ridge trail, but please purify before drinking just to be safe. Shortly after the spring, the trail crosses another muddy spring and a swampy area in season. Then, it bends southward again before winding up around another spur ridge. This ridge is flat and covered in an aspen forest. This is approximately five miles from the trailhead back in Cowles. From this area, the trail exits the dense aspen stand onto a more open hillside dotted with douglas fir trees as well as aspen. You may see a couple of muddy springs and a swampy spot or two in the right season here. You will know when you arrive at the top of the hill when the forest changes over to Engleman Spruce. From the top of the hill, the trail only has a short descent to the junction with the Skyline Trail. Turn left at the junction and it is only about a half mile to Stewart Lake. Do not forget to take a quick look at a beautiful large meadow just to the north of the trail junction. It is worth a quick side trip. A descent sized creek flows from the meadow and the trail follows its southerly route briefly before crossing. From the crossing the trail gradually swings away from the creek and over a small rise before arriving at a large meadow with a beautiful pond. A campsite to your right is too close to the trail and the pond and should not be used. There is a brand new and very well constructed bridge crossing the outlet stream from the pond. After crossing the bridge, the trail follows along a smaller meadow to the left before once again turning right up another small rise. From the top of the rise there are views of the large meadow and the pond to your right. On the left look for a flat area in the thick spruce forest. This would be a great place to camp with ample firewood within a quarter mile of Stewart Lake to avoid the crowds. Beware of low spots that could flood during downpours though. Now there is just one more small rise to climb before arriving at Stewart Lake. To my surprise, Stewart Lake is not a natural lake. It has been dammed and the inlet stream was diverted to feed the lake. It is still a beautiful spot. I have not had much luck fishing here, but there are trout in the lake. You can go back the way that you came, or you can make loop hike with the Winsor Trail or the Cave Creek Trail.
Hike #22 – Cave Creek Trail to Lake Johnson
Trailhead: Panchuella
Directions:
Difficulty: Moderately Difficult – 3,000 ft elevation gain, although not particularly steep
Distance: 15 miles round trip
Time Required: Overnight
Attributes: Scenic, good fishing, wildflowers
Seasons: June - October
Usage: Moderate (heavy near the trailhead)
Special Information: Loop hikes can be made by combining trip with other trails such as the Winsor Ridge Trail or the Cave Creek Trail or even the Winsor National Recreation Trail.
Trail Description: The Cave Creek Trail starts inside the Panchuella campground. It is a walk-in only campground with shelters and the trailhead is on the far side of the campground next to the creek. Here you will find the kiosk just before the bridge over Panchuella Creek that marks the start of the trail.
Cross the bridge and the trail climbs slightly as it follows the creek upstream. The trail will make a few minor ups and downs before a intersection with the horse trail bypass of the campground. Obviously, the forest service does not want horsed going through the walk-in only campground. The trail soon flattens out through a diverse forest. You will find as many species of plants and trees here as anywhere else in the wilderness. Here you will pass the intersection with the Dockweiler trail. Continue left to remain on the cave creek trail. After a little while, the trail drops down closer to the creek. The stream is incredibly beautiful here especially in the dappled light of the early morning. There is likely some trout waiting to bite a fly or bait here as you are getting farther from the campground. The forest through here is still a very diverse mixed forest of conifer and aspen. Eventually, the trail crosses Panchuela creek and begins to head in a more westerly direction. The trail begins to climb gradually. You will pass by a small patch of poison ivy right along both sides of the trail, so be wary. You will also pass a signed area where a use trail goes down to the stream. The sign reads “no camping within 50’ of trails or streams.” I get the hint…. the Forest Service doesn’t want anyone camping there. A gentleman that we met on the trail made a slightly sarcastic comment that the F.S. doesn’t want anyone camping in any of the good spots. Soon, you will find yourself approaching the caves. You’ll know your there when you see heavily use trails turning left off the trail. The caves are quite interesting to explore, and they are a good place to cool down in the afternoon heat. You may want to bring sandals or clogs for wading here. There is first a smaller cave, and then about 50 yards up there is another set of caves that are much larger. The creek is still very pretty here too. Not far past the caves, the trail becomes steeper and veers away from the creek. This is where you will make a good portion of your elevation gain on this hike. It is a steep rocky climb, and it lasts for a couple of miles. I small creek crosses the trail towards the second half of the climb, and it is a good place to replenish your water supply. Not far after the trail levels out slightly, you will reach the intersection with the skyline trail. Turn left here and follow the trail in a southerly direction. You will cross two interesting earth filled bridges across two small creeks. One was built with mortared stones on the sides and is likely very old. After a nice flat section of trail, you will reach nicely graded section of switchbacks (just a couple). After climbing up the hill, the trail levels out somewhat again with only some minor ups and downs. This lasts for about a mile or so until you reach the intersection with the Lake Johnson Trail. Take a right turn here. The trail will follow a meadow to the left for a couple hundred yards before climbing gradually up the hill. The trail will soon begin to switchback and wind up the hill. When you are on this trail, and you are looking forward to reaching the lake, it seems like the longest two miles of the Pecos Wilderness. You do cross at least one small spring fed creek and you can hear a larger stream nearby if you need water. Many of the trees have died in this area, and it makes for a hot climb with lots of deadfalls to climb over depending on the trail maintenance status. Make sure you glance up occasionally, on windy days to spot widowmakers. You will know when you are finally at the lake when you hike over a small hump and start heading down to the water.
Lake Johnson is an incredibly beautiful place. There is a meadow on the far end with a spring fed creek that feeds the lake. I have seen trout spawn here in early June. You can find good campsites to the north and one camp to the east a little past the outlet stream from the trail. The northern campsites have more and easier to obtain firewood, but the eastern camp is more private, and it has the outlet stream nearby. One final note, this is the place in the Pecos Wilderness to go if you like trout fishing in high mountain lakes.
Hike #23 - Hamilton Mesa & Pecos Falls to the Rio Valdez & Mora Flats
Trailhead: Iron Gate Campground
Directions:
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Time Required: 2 – 4 days
Attributes: Views, Fishing, Wildlife viewing
Seasons: June to Early October
Usage: Heavy – Light (upper Valdez are only)
Special Information:
Trail Description: This hike starts at Iron Gate Campground. From the North end of the campground, take the trail up the hill through a mixed conifer forest. The trail will switchback a couple of times until you reach the top of the ridge. Here you will reach a trail junction. If you take a right, you will head away from the wilderness towards Grass Mountain. If you take a left, that will take you toward Hamilton Mesa. The trail is fairly level for a while with minor ups and downs. There are a few good views towards the canyon below you to the right. The forest is beautiful with aspens, and various conifers that include quite a few old growth ponderosa pines. Soon you will reach a fork in the trail. If you take the right fork, it will take you down to Mora Flats on the Rociada Trail. Keep left up the Hamilton Mesa trail to Hamilton mesa. Just before you reach the grassland at the top of the mesa, you will come to a cattle gate. There is a short patch of aspen between the gate and the grassland. Once on top of the mesa, you will see wonderful views of the Santa Fe Mountains to the Southwest. Keep heading North on the trail. You will skirt the edge of an aspen stand to your left and soon come out into another grassy area. From here, you will get another view of mountains. This time, to the Northwest. You will see Truchas Peaks and Chimayosis Peak. This is the view that Hamilton Mesa is famous for. Many day hikers end their journey north in this general vicinity. Keep going north, enjoy the views along the way. About three miles or so from the trailhead, you will come across a covered spring for cattle to your left. After that, continue North to the Junction with the Larkspur Trail. Going left on the Larkspur Trail will take you down the hill and across the Pecos River to the Beatty’s Cabin area. Your trail takes you on relatively flat trail with a few gradual ups. You’ll see another covered spring on your right this time. After 1.4 miles from the last trail junction, you will come to an intersection with the Bob Grounds Trail. It is a very lightly used trail. If you turn left on the Bob Grounds, it will take you to the same place as the Larkspur Trail. Turning right will take you to the Rio Valdez for a shorter loop if you would like. However, the trail is extremely faint. In fact, I did not see it at all when I was there. I did see a possible marker post further up the hill. Anyway, continue straight up the Hamilton Mesa Trail for another 3.6 miles through spruce and fir forests with an occasional aspen tree and a few grassy openings. Views to the right foreshadow what is to come on the Valdez Trail. When you have completed the 3.6 miles, you will find the Hamilton Mesa Trail ending at a “T” with the Gascon Trail. Turn left here to go down to Pecos Falls. There is no camping around Pecos Falls. Contact the Pecos/Las Vegas District of the Santa Fe National Forest for information on where the closure boundaries are. I found that the maps do not match for the closure area. The forest service map shows a different shape than the National Geographic map, and the map on the sign near Pecos Falls shows something different than the other maps. I found this to be confusing. Also, there is a trail that branches left from the Gascon Trail that is not on any map. I have no Idea where this unmapped trail goes. There is a trail junction sign at the intersection, but it does not relate any information on where that trail goes. Very confusing. Continue straight down the hill to the Pecos River. Yet another trail junction points you to Pecos Falls at this point. However, it is just a use trail, but it does take you to the Falls. To get to the nearest camping as far as I know, continue across the Pecos River form the falls intersection. Go left following the Gascon Trail up the hill. Continue until you reach the Jarosa Creek area. If you go right on the Pecos River Trail, it will take you up to the headwaters of the Pecos Wilderness and eventually to the Skyline Trail on the Santa Barbara Divide. Note to fisher-people: Above the falls is managed as “Special Trout Waters.” Please contact the department of fish and game for more information on specific regulations. Also, I tried to camp up here and there were two major problems that I had. First, the spruce trees were all dead from the Spruce Beetle infestation. Second, the flat areas were either wet and swampy, or could obviously become wet if it rained. You are better off camping near Jarosa Creek.
To continue the hike, backtrack up the Gascon Trail back towards the Hamilton Mesa Trail. Keep going past the Hamilton Mesa trail through Spruce Forest. It is 1.2 miles from the top of the mesa to the junction with the Rio Valdez Trail or the Valdez Trail as some signs show. About .1 mile south of the intersection, there is a nice campsite along the Gascon Trail. However, there are many dead spruce trees here so pitch your tent carefully. There is an opening along the eastern side of the camp overlooking a drop-off with a view of the creek below. Here it may be open enough to set up a tent. The intersection here is a bit confusing. The Rio Valdez Trail follow the Gascon Trail for about 100 yards down the hill. So, at the second junction, take a right. You will know your there when you see the Gascon Trail continue across the river. It also heads up to the Skyline Trail. Your route takes you downstream along the Rio Valdez. The forest here has also been nearly decimated by bark beetles. Do not let that fool you though, it is still exceptionally beautiful. The trail follows alongside the river as it flows downhill for a short stretch, but it soon veers away as the stream drops elevation quicker. Soon you will emerge from the dying spruce forest and enter some open grassy areas. The trails soon drops down to the stream. Be careful not to follow the wrong trail here as cow trails can cause navigational issues as it did with me. However, it is easy to drop back downhill to the main trail in these grassy areas. You will find yourself in a wonderfully scenic drainage. Many wildflowers grow along the banks of the pristine stream. There will be the stream and forest on your left and grassy openings on your right. Eventually, you will enter back into the forest as the canyon walls begin to steepen. There are many river crossings through this stretch of trail. There are a few campsites too. Most of them appear to be within 50 feet of the trail and river, so be careful about Leave No Trace Ethics. However, the canyon is narrow enough that there is no other place to camp, and I imagine that is why the forest service had not removed the fire rings here. Maybe they will in the future. Time will tell. Anyway, the trail continues following the creek back and forth from the east side to the west of the creek. Eventually, it drops down to flatter terrain. That is when you know that you are arriving at Mora Flats. There are many great places to camp here. I would advise to explore around. There are campsites on both sides of the Rio Mora for about a half mile in either direction. In fact, there is a good trail on the far side of the river that is not on the map. There is some fish in the Rio Mora, but I think that it receives more pressure than the other streams listed on this trip. To return to the trailhead, turn right on the Rociada Trail. Follow it to the end of the flats where it meets with the los esteros trail and then begins to gradually ascend for a while before switching back twice to help increase the elevation to where the trail can traverse the hillside above a rock outcrop. Even with the switchbacks the trail is not what I would consider to be steep. Continue to follow the trail for and enjoy a couple of great views of the flats below. Soon you will reach another cattle fence. Eventually, you will return to the Hamilton Mesa Trail to complete the loop. It is exactly one mile back to the Iron Gate Campground Trailhead from this point.
Hike#24 - Jack’s Creek to Pecos Baldy Lake, Trailrider’s Wall, Truchas Lakes and Return via Beatty’s Cabin
Trailhead: Jack’s Creek #15
Directions:
Difficulty: Hard
Distance: 32 miles
Time Required: 3-5 Days
Attributes: Mountain Lakes, Great Views, Wildlife, Stream Fishing
Seasons: July – Early October
Usage: Heavy
Special Information:
Trail Description: The Beaty Trail #25 starts at the Jack’s Creek Parking lot. It traverses the hillside while climbing steadily through mixed forest. After passing the campground on the left, the trail will switchback up the hill several times until you reach the junction with the horse packers trail alternate. At that point, the trail heads North up to a ridgeline and follows the ridge for a while. Eventually, the trail rounds a ravine and turns east while still climbing steadily uphill. Soon, the forest opens into a grassland as you reach the junction with the Jack’s Creek Trail. At this junction, you will turn around to see expansive views of the Pecos River drainage. Here, turn left onto the Jack’s Creek Trail. Follow it through a stand of aspen into a small opening. The trail goes through the opening and into another even more beautiful stand of aspen. This is one of my favorite little forests in the entire wilderness. It does not last for long though, and soon you will find yourself in another large grassland area. Expect to see cattle grazing in this area. The trail continues through the grassy area as it climbs. Soon, it levels off and you pass by a grove of aspen on the left. There is a small spring with a campsite here if you look closely, but you are only about three miles into the wilderness. The trail continues heading generally North. After a while, the trail enters a ratty looking stand of spruce. Many of the trees through here were dead at the time I walked through. It only lasts for about a quarter of a mile before the trail emerges into another opening. There are wonderful views in these grassy areas, and they are a pleasure to walk through. At the end of the grassy area, there is a small muddy boggy area with poles and sticks in it to help you cross without getting your feet muddy. After the bog, the trail enters a spruce forest. The spruce forest lasts for almost a mile until you reach Jack’s Creek and the junction with the Dockweiler trail. Turn right to continue heading up to Pecos Baldy Lake. A left takes you to Pancheulla Campground or a cut-off trail to the Skyline Trail and Horsethief Meadow. Anyway, there is a nice campsite on the North side of the trail junction, and the trail heads east following Jack’s Creek upstream for a time. About a tenth of a mile past the first campsite, there is another. The trail eventually pulls away from the creek and begins to climb uphill steeper through dense spruce forest. Just before you reach the Jaroso Fire burn scar, the Dockweiler Trail turns right off the Jack’s Creek Trail. Here, the Jack’s Creek trail begins heading North again still climbing steeply. It eventually heads into the burn scar. You will need to be incredibly careful here. In the next few years the stumps of the dead trees will be rotting out and causing large amounts of timber to fall across the trail, and the danger of stuff landing on your head weather it be branches or trees is very real. Do not spend too much time hanging out in this area just pass on through. I was there on a very windy day, and the eerie sound of the wind whistling through the dead trees made me feel a little uneasy. Anyway, past the burn, the trail continues through another forest of mainly spruce. Eventually, the trail turns westward towards Pecos Baldy Lake. You will come to a grassy opening where there is an intermittent stream that crosses the trail. At this stream if you follow it South, there are some lesser used campsites near a meadow with a nice view of the eastern face of East Pecos Baldy. The trail continues for another quarter mile until you reach a junction with the skyline trail. A right-hand turn onto the skyline trail will take you towards Trailrider’s wall. A left turn will take you to the junction with the trail that leads to the top of East Pecos Baldy and further on it goes through another part of the Jaroso burn scar and eventually will lead you to Horsetheif meadows. To reach Pecos Baldy Lake, go straight through the intersection. It is less than a quarter mile ahead.
Pecos Baldy Lake is an extremely popular place to camp. Do not plan on solitude here. There is a sign that states “No Camping in Lake Basin”, so if you are looking for spots, here are your options. The campsites near the lake are mostly to the right along both sides of the Skyline Trail. There are also a few sites up on top the moraine in front of the lake, but these are marginal at best. However, there is a couple of good spots near the sign on the southeast side of the lake on the skyline trail. You will see an unsigned use trail turning left and heading southeast from this point. Follow the old and well used trail to these campsites. There is even a spring to fill you water up if you walk down far enough.
Side Trip to the summit of East Pecos Baldy: Again, from the junction of the Jack’s Creek Trail and the Skyline Trail in front of Pecos Baldy Lake, turn South or Left if you are facing the lake. The trail follows the top of the moraine for a short distance, and then it enters a spruce forest and curves to the right and begins climbing the north aspect of the hill. It will get steep and switchback a few times on its way up to a saddle at the foot of the south slope of the mountain. There are wonderful views of the lake and even truchas peaks beyond from this location. Also, you will see a trail junction sign here. This is where the trail to the top of the mountain begins. You will need to look for cairns across the small grassy field towards the mountain. The trail goes between the cairns like a little gate, and switchbacks steeply for a half a mile until it reaches to top of the mountain.
The loop hike continues heading north from the intersection on the skyline trail. It passes through a beautiful stand of bristlecone pine with some spruce trees. It eventually climbs steeply into an opening where the Jack’s Creek Trail branches off and heads easterly. The Skyline Trail continues northward through sparce trees towards Trailrider’s wall. The views of the Pecos River Drainage are excellent to your right. Before long, you begin to round your way to the north side of the hill (Hill? The darn thing is about 12,000 ft). Here you will see what I consider to be the iconic view of the entire Pecos Wilderness. Trailrider’s wall spreads out before you and pointing the way to Truchas Peaks. Next, the trail drops down onto the top of the ridge that is Trailrider’s Wall. It extends for two miles with very little forest to block you views. On your left, you can see down the Rio Medio canyon all the way to the Espanola Valley. On you right, you can see the Pecos River Drainage, and ahead of you is Truchas Peaks and Chimayosos Peak. Eventually, you reach a couple of switchbacks that drop you down a bit, and you come to the next trail intersection. Here, the Joe Vigil trail goes to the left. The skyline trail heads to the right. That is the way that you want to go. The skyline trail drops down off the ridgeline and onto a flat and forested area. It continues to head north. Soon, it takes you alongside a long talus slope. The trail gets steep here. Eventually, you top out at an interesting alpine area that drops down from the summit of South Truchas Peak, the highest mountain in the Pecos Wilderness. I have seen bighorn sheep around this area on more that one occasion. The trail goes heads uphill and back down and around a bit here, and it also heads through some talus where you can watch for Pika. At the north end of this interesting area the trail turns east to head out around a rocky ridge that branches out from Truchas Peak. Soon, you will follow along a spring-fed creek just a short distance uphill from it at first, but the stream drops down farther from the trail the further along you go. Next, you will reach the end of the ridge you are traversing, and the trail turns northward. You will come out of the trees where you find a beautiful pond fed by a spring right next to the trail. This is a great place to fill up on water. After the pond, you will go over a small rise and there will be a large meadow on your right side through the spruce trees. A half mile later, you will come to another trail junction. If you turn right, you will be on the North Azul Trail which takes you downhill towards Beatty’s Flats. The Skyline Trail takes you another half a mile up to Lower Truchas Lake. At the lake the trail turns east and follows the edge of the lake. Just across the outlet stream you will reach a junction with the Rio Quemado Trail.
Truchas Lakes are another extremely popular place to camp. However, I have had the lakes to myself as they are fourteen miles from the nearest trailheads. It is signed to camp 200 feet from the lakes, but there are only a few places to camp that are more than 200 ft away from the lakes. Most people camp near the lake. The legal places to camp are #1 – Atop a small hill on the west side of Upper Truchas Lake. #2 – A campsite near the junction of the North Azul Tr, but it had dead spruce trees over the top of the camp now. #3 – Just before the top of the hill heading into South Truchas lake, there is a small meadow on the right side of the trail where there is a campsite. #4 – East of the lakes about a half of a mile along the skyline trail. My guess is that all the other fire rings around the lakes are technically too close, and there are many of them.
To continue the loop, from the southeast corner of lower truchas lake, go east on the skyline trail. After a quarter of a mile or so, the trail will lead you down a switchback. You will pass a camp on your right, and the trail will continue to descend for a short distance until you reach the other side of a huge rock outcrop that extends down from North Truchas Peak. On the other side of the outcrop, the trail will climb for a bit, and then cross a small stream. The forest will open into grassier slopes, and you will be greeted by nice views of Chimayosos Peak. Soon you will come to an unsigned (when I was there) junction with a cut-off trail to the West Santa Barbara Trail on your left. There was a rock pile to mark the trail junction. Soon the trail descends to a low point between North Truchas and Chimayosos Peaks where there is an intermittent stream. Just past that, you will reach the junction with the Jack’s Creek Trail on your right. This is the Northern terminus of that trail. Next, the Skyline Trail turns southeasterly as it begins to skirt around the massive bulk of Chimayosos Peak. As it traverses around the side of the mountain, it ascends gradually in elevation the entire time. It also gradually curves around to the east. The forest here is made up of mostly young bristlecone pine trees. You will enjoy the almost close-up view of South and Middle Truchas Peaks through the trees here. Soon, you will hit a junction with the Beatty trail that comes in sharply from the North side of the trail that you are hiking. Keep curving around the mountain heading first East and then Northeast through spruce forest on the Skyline/Beatty Trail. Eventually, you will leave the timbered slopes behind and come out to a brushy and grassy opening. This signifies that you are almost to your turn onto the Beatty Trail. There is a signed junction at your turn. Now, you will head South. Do not forget to check out the view from the top one more time before you start to descend into spruce forest. The trail is not nearly as steep as what it appears to be according to the number of topo lines crossed on the map. Soon, you will reach a small round meadow surrounded by forest. The trail was completely trampled by a large herd of elk when I passed through, and it was hard to follow. After about 15 minutes of scouting around, and following another hiker’s footprints in the wrong direction, I found the trail continued almost strait ahead from where it first entered the meadow above. So, in other words if the trail is hard to follow, just go straight. I reentered the forest here. There were many blow downs and deadfalls through this section of trail when I travelled through. Hopefully, the volunteers that clear trails will get to these trees early next year. The trail continues this pattern of descending through areas of spruce forest and meadows for a few miles until you reach the first major stream crossing on the trail. This stream is the Rito Del Padre. There is an excellent camping spot to the right of the trail just before the crossing. It contains flat and soft tent spots, no dead spruce trees around that contain widowmakers, there is plenty of firewood around, and it is close to the stream. I did see small trout here in the creek, but they were too small to fish for. Overall, I would consider it a 5-star campsite. Just across the creek, the trail splits. Take that trail that goes straight through the meadow. The other trail leads to a hunter’s camp atop a small rise overlooking a grassy opening along the creek. Anyway, the trail goes through more grassy areas and forested areas until it reaches a rocky ridgeline between two creeks. Here, the trail descends a steep section just before the confluence of the two creeks which are the Rito Maestas on your left and the Rito Del Padre on your right. You will also start to see the first aspen trees on the Beatty’s Trail too. There is a pretty little cascade to your left just before the creek crossing. After the crossing, the trail flattens out for a while. You will go through one more creek crossing before you reach the junction with the Gascon Trail. After that, you will go through a large grassy opening. The South end of the opening gets very steep as the trail climbs gradually up away from the stream. You will reach another small section of forest, and then another opening. The trail split here at the beginning of the opening. Take the left trail downhill towards another creek crossing. The upper trail is just a cow path. There is no sign or marker to guide you here. As the trail gradually descends towards the creek, you will enter spruce forest again. You will also see an awesome little waterfall and pool in the stream here. Next, the trail takes you back into a grassy area where you will get a view of the trails ahead. Then, you will reach the next trail junction. A right turn will take you up the Chimayosos Trail. Go straight and continue to follow the Beatty Trail. It follows the creek for a little while before another crossing just before a cattle fence and a gate. Go through the gate and continue following the creek on the eastern side of the stream. The stream is becoming much larger through this section. The trail leads you next between a rock bluff and the stream just before you reach a bridge over the Rito Del Padre. This is the beginning of the “no camping” zone around Beatty’s Flats. It is signed on the post of the bridge with a written description and a map. Across the bridge, the trail climbs a short but steep grade. At the top is yet another grassy opening. You go through the grassy area as the trail drops back down to the river. It follows closely along the river here, and there was a sort of dam caused by fallen trees next to the trail. I saw quite of few pan-sized trout swimming around here. After a short distance, the trail goes through another grassy area with a bluff across the creek on the left. This is the northern end of Beatty’s Flats. The grassy area soon opens into a very small valley where there is another junction. This is the Pecos Trail. You can turn left here and head up the Pecos River Drainage because this is where the Rito Del Padre and Pecos River converge. For this trip, your trail continues south through the large opening. Soon, you reach another junction. This time it is a three-way junction with the Larkspur (left turn) and the Sebadillosis Trail (right turn). The Larkspur trail is a connector trail that will take you up to the Hamilton Mesa Trail. The Sebadillosis Trail takes you west towards the Dockweiler Trail and even further up to Trailrider’s Wall. The Beatty’s Trail continues to go South through the flats. You can get a glimpse of the old forest service workstation up the hill from the flats through here. I am not sure if one of the cabins is the original cabin that George Beatty built when he prospected this area, or if they are all newer. There are three cabins up there, so at least two new ones were built later. This was a great place for a workstation because it is a central hub for the Pecos-Las Vegas District area of the wilderness. There is a trail that was not on my map the pointed towards upper Beatty’s Flats that is the trail to the cabins. I think that they are still used and maintained by the Santa Fe National Forest. Anyway, at the South end of the flats before reaching some rocky cliffs and bluffs on both sides of the Pecos River, the trail turns west and heads up a moderately steep incline. Just before the crossing at Beatty’s Creek is the junction with the trail that leads to the cabin, and on that signpost is another map of the no camping area to signify the southern end of its boundary. The trail continues climbing in a southerly direction past the crossing eventually bringing you to a sharp rocky bend in the trail. If you look to the left here, there is an awesome viewpoint of Beatty’s Flats and Chimayosos Peak beyond. The trail makes a sharp swing right and heads through mixed forest to an old burned area. Aspens and bracken ferns are taking over this burned section, but there are some good views of Hamilton Mesa across the Pecos River Canyon from here. After passing a few smaller meadows, you will cross a stream called Noisy Brook. This will be your last chance to fill up on water. From this point on, the trail goes through or skirts by many grassy openings with great views. It even stays fairly level. The only drawback is the quantity of cattle grazing in this area. Eventually, you will come out on top of a hill with a Bristlecone Pine stand on your left and an Aspen grove out in front of you. You have almost made it back to the intersection with the Jack’s creek trail from where you started the loop days ago. Enjoy the views on your way down the hill to the trail junction too because they are stupendous. From the junction, it is only 2.5 miles back to Jack’s Creek Trailhead on familiar trail that I have already described.